Mother’s Day Abroad

In my last post I alluded to the idea that even seasoned travelers, and people who have spent years living away from their home country, suffer longing and alienation at times. Mother’s Day certainly elicits those feelings for me. I haven’t sat with coffee at a breakfast table with my daughter for many many years. I would love to spend this morning commiserating with her now that her own sons no long live near her. There will be wishes, her to me, me to her, and her sons to her, certainly, but the day will be like any other; no construction paper cards, origami birds, messy breakfast in bed, or kisses on the cheek. I have no such pangs for 4th of July, Thanksgiving, or Easter-none of those mean much to me these days. But motherhood is existential.

Fortunately for the emigrant, these days we are able to communicate easily across the globe, so people don’t generally seem so far away. But I chose to live in Mexico partly because it is just next door to where my family lives. It seems so close. But it really isn’t near if you are on a budget. In 17 years of living abroad, I have managed to see my daughter every year at least once (save one year when I couldn’t travel for a bad injury). Now that my daughter and my grandsons live in wholly different parts of the country, necessitating at least 2 flights, and hotels where the boys live, it is just not possible to see them all. I dearly miss my grandsons, but haven’t the resources for a trip to the mid-west, and hotels and car rental, etc.. The retiree living on Social Security will recognize this painful reality.

I would love to have them come see me, and I make sure I always have a space for them to stay, but working people in the U.S. have little time for travel, and are actually financially as stretched as I am. My grandsons are busy, very, establishing themselves as young adults and trying to figure a way in today’s world. My daughter, too, works long hours, has myriad responsibilities and no spare cash to travel to Mexico. There is a reason people from the US travel so little. Money and time are in short supply for most everyone. I understand that they can’t come see me; that is the reality.

My Mexican friends all wished me a happy Mother’s Day on Friday (Mother’s day is always on the 10th of May here, and is a national holiday). Mexicans on average don’t have much money, but they do have plenty of holidays and fiestas. The streets were filled with men and children with armloads of flowers, going home to their houses, where their mothers and fathers and grandmothers, grandfathers, tias and tios, often live together. I’m sure everyone sang to and kissed mama. In the afternoon and evening couples danced in the town square to a live band, and children chased each other through the walkways and park. Being on a Friday this year meant that there was a 3 day holiday.

Nostalgia, and longing for a sort of family that never was, at least never was in the deep sense of family in Mexico, makes this time bittersweet. I know many Gringo migrants here who seek out each other for solidarity on days like Thanksgiving, Christmas, Easter and the 4th of July, for fun and solidarity and when simulacra will do, but we can only commiserate on Mother’s Day and Father’s Day, for we cannot be for each other what only our children, and mothers, can be. So today I sit in the warmth of Mexico, the sky filled with birdsong, and wish I were at my Daughter’s table.

Having my eggs in one basket

20 years of travel, moving, and indecision, and now I am here with all my things, and books, and clothes and, especially, baggage, of the metaphorical sort. Here being Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, Mexico. I am elated! Well, I should be, I suppose. After years of looking and considering, researching and traveling, I decided on Oaxaca. But years have passed of having open options and a literal world of possibilities, and now that seems settled, Here, at the end of a very long road. I’m sitting on my verandah, looking out on my garden.

This monarch butterfly emerged from her chrysalis this morning while I watched with my morning coffee. She has flown away to her fate, having shredded her home. Such freedom. On the other hand, she may already be dead today, so there is that.

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It is a good time to be still in the May heat. The cicadas racketing in the trees should be a reminder that the rains are coming, but the rains are late again this year. Bougainvillea laden heavily with a carpet of blossoms also attest to the lack of rain. It would seem I have landed myself in a paradise, albeit a bit dry at the moment. So why this deeply unsettled feeling in my gut? I am here, in something approximating perfection, and, on my stingy Social Security, I can afford to live well, ensconced in my memories made manifest by my collection of travel oddities I have finally collected up in one place, This is usually where the most trite movie segues into credits; bird song, good food and music, flowers and abundance, laid back and enjoying my denouement.

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But. This slice of paradise is a rental, and I may soon have to move. Well, I either have to go soon, or at least within the year. I moved into this house expecting to stay for a long time, but things change, and now it is temporary. I feel a twinge of pain when I survey the beauty and hear mostly just nature. There is the pain of parting even as I haven’t decided yet when. And where to? If (when) I leave here I plan to move back to town, being the city of Oaxaca, from this village of el Tule.

Town is a ways away from this Edenic existence. I love cities, where I can go out the door and there are cafes and walking streets. In the heart of Oaxaca throbs the Zocalo, the town square, a town square vibrating with hundreds of people ranging from sellers of gee-gaws to shoe shiners and strolling lovers. When I arrive at the Zocalo, unless I am really feeling low, I break out in a smile at the joy there. Seldom is a band not playing, always children scampering, political “plantons,” or encampments, dot the south side, and deep-pocketed tourists tempt the trolls and pickpockets. Every part of the city has its own market, and each market has a day of the week when it is most lively. Those days the markets often have some musicians strolling about, and old women sitting on the floor with a cloth in front of them on which is arrayed garden goods, fresh eggs and other miscellania they are hawking this week. Now is berry season, coming after the height of mango season. Tomatoes the likes of which are seldom seen come along at different times- some almost black, some glowing yellow, so ripe and delicate they can split open on the walk home.

Friday night in Oaxaca is the usual night for gallery openings. Not chi-chi events or twice monthly art strolls, but artists and friends sharing their art, with mezcal, beer and snacks.. Sometimes even tamales or other savory dishes. Always peanuts, fried with chiles and whole garlic. Other nights there are talks, often political, sometimes artistic or literary; mostly in Spanish but at times in English. When you arrive at a home, or an opening, or, or, you are offered a mezcal. I have been so offered at breakfast, and at funerals. I would like to be able to attend more of these events. Or just wander down the street and peer into the galleries and museums open and full of local artists and others out for a cool evening stroll.

I often walk the length of Oaxaca, from North to South, getting in my exercise while running errands and seeing people. It takes a half-hour colectivo ride (shared taxi) to get to town from my village, and the last one returns at 8 or 9 P.M.. I can’t often stay late in town. The colectivos cruise until 10-11 PM on Friday and Saturday, so I can stay out later on those nights.

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The city has so much on offer, but, as you can well imagine, it also rocks with noise at times, many times. Rarely is there a moment when in town that I don’t hear music, of all sorts, including small groups of students from the College of Fine Arts maybe playing Django Reinhardt, Reggaeton, or classical. Fine music and country banda, or a symphony orchestra, all share the streets. Lovely until you want to sleep. Fiestas are announced at 6 in the morning with fireworks and end late in the night (to be fair, this also happens in my village, but less frequently). The city is a noisy place. Early in the morning a truck with a loud speaker goes through the neighborhood playing cow sounds and selling tanks of gas. Strikes and marches happen regularly. The normal urban sound level in Mexico would not pass any ordinance requirement in the US..

So there is the dichotomy. My circumstances certainly don’t allow for me to have a place in town and here in the village. I have to choose between the idiocy of the rural life, as Marx so aptly put it, or the noisy dirty chaos of urban joy. As I said, it is not a choice of whether, but when. This sultry spring air and the somnambulance of midday, reclined on the verandah, does not inspire in me what it takes to move. I feel inert. The only action being the soft press of my fingers on a key board and sleepy thought.

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So, where to live in the short run is a big question. On an existential level, in my gut, I feel maybe more unsettled than I have in the last 20 or more years. One does not travel the world, changing countries every 2 or 3 years, if they find contentment being settled. I’m restless as usual. Explaining to my Mexican neighbor this morning about the complexities and varieties of curries has me thinking of travel to the subcontinent. The Andes need to be revisited. I’ve a good friend in Japan urging me to come. And an impending wedding in England. How can I so foreshorten my horizons by staying here in Oaxaca? How can I consider such travel on my little budget, and with all my eggs are here needing to be tended to?

 

 

 

 

Sick and Alone in Mexico

I doubt many of us are really prepared for the serious medical emergency while we are traveling. No matter how well prepared or how seasoned a traveler, when the doctors say “surgery,” you quake inside.

One Saturday evening in my second week on Oaxaca, I became doubled up with intestinal cramps and pain that lasted all night. It let up a bit and so I waited till Monday to go to the doctor. He listened to my symptoms and said “amoeba.” I took the prescribed meds and nothing changed. The pain was acute.

I found another doctor who again treated me for amoeba, and still there was no change. Now it was getting worrisome, and I was getting scared. After a series of tested, including a colonoscopy which could not be finished because of severe and infected blockage, my doctor started mention “surgery.”

This is when the alone part of traveling alone became an issue. First, of course, alone is not the way to be for a medical emergency, especially one that takes you into the finer workings of a foreign medical system. You need someone to talk to and to go to the doctor’s with you, because in the circumstances, your judgement may not really be the best. Hand holding is called for, and someone to talk you off the ledge of extreme fear. Someone soothing who will both let you cry and talk you out of weeping.

Second, in many countries, including Mexico, you are expected to have someone at the hospital with you, and someone to care for you post-operation. Of course everyone back home is working, or if they aren’t, like say a young adult grandson, they don’t have a passport. I checked in with everyone. I got lots of sympathy and concern and apologies for not being available, but it isn’t the same and doesn’t help you with the practicalities of recovery.

So here I was alone and afraid. Between the pain fear, I was crying a lot. A neighbor helped me some with diagnostic appointments, which was helpful, but I didn’t really know her. I sure could not ask her to help me through the whole process.

But it ended up not being necessary to have help this time. My condition started improving, which seems to have had something to do with the total cleansing necessary for the aborted colonoscopy. Between the colonoscopy and a cat scan a few days later, I had started healing. It was then that the doctor told me he had been convinced it was cancer, but it wasn’t, and I was healing well.

This, of course, has been a learning experience. I guess the most important consideration is whether or not you are comfortable having surgery in a developing country. If my cat scan had shown the same condition that the colonoscopy did, then for sure they would have wanted to operate pretty immediately. To go to the US for the surgery, where I have no established relationship with a doctor or medical system, would have postponed things for too long. But everyone was encouraging me to do just that. My doctor assured me that the surgeon here was excellent, and I have been assured by many that the hospital is very good.

Insurance is another issue. For me, at least. I travel “bareback,” meaning I have no medical insurance except for Medicare in the US. Self insuring is good for doctor’s visits and such, but surgery is a different story. My doctor told me the whole thing would be under $2000 US. I have set aside savings with exactly this eventuality in mind. Fortunately all of the testing and the doctor’s visits came to under $300.

I was extremely lucky. First and foremost because I found a doctor who had trained in the US, and who had grown up there. He has practiced in Oaxaca for over 20 years, so he is totally integrated, and integral to, the local medical establishment. His English is spoken with no accent and he understands the needs of American patients. In case you find yourself needing a doctor in Oaxaca, his name is Alberto Zamacona, and most call him Doctor Z.

I was lucky beyond what I every could have expected by having recovered without having surgery. For that I am grateful both to the ministrations of my doctor, and to my excellent immune system. I have been stunned by my recovery.

So, that was my month in Oaxaca. Now I have a couple of weeks left to enjoy the beautiful city and get acquainted with more than the medical system.

Leaning Towards Mexico

There is really no deciding where it is best to spend the rest of one´s life. It is all done with some bittersweet hope and trepidation. I’ve been too many places and have seen and experienced too much disappointment after having earnest confidence. I’ve read the stories of others whose hearts were broken by a place they fell in love with. Perhaps that is part of the reason I have been looking for so long, and have been mostly crest fallen at what I’ve seen.

But Mexico. In the last 14 years I have been in Mexico more time than in the US. I have worked there, a bit, and slept there a lot. I’ve invested in land there, only to be ripped off by my partner/ex good friend; a real soul crushing experience. I have few romantic delusions about Mexico. I am currently reading Under the Volcano, which should banish what remains of my fantasies. I think if I stay in Mexico, it will be a measured decision.

I landed back in Mexico City a couple of weeks ago, from Lima, Peru, and it didn’t take long to remember why it has always been my first and last choice. Why hadn’t I just decided that long ago? First, I am very concerned that I won’t qualify for residency with my very limited resources, besides, I still had exploring to do. The issue of financial requirements scares me. If I ca’t get residency here, then I am back to the start in terms of finding a place. For a variety of reasons that I will try to  cover in another post, I was not satisfied with the options in South America.

I am set on Mexico for now. I have contacted an attorney, and I hope they can help me sort out the residency visa. Now is a good time to do this, as the dollar is at an all time high vs. the Peso, so at least it seems like I have more money than I do.

What is it about Mexico? That is the ephemeral aspect to choosing a place. I can give lots of practical reasons; I am learning the language, it is close to the US, I love the food and the culture, yada yada. But it comes down to walking the streets of Mexico City and feeling a part of it, and yet totally foreign. It gives me the psychic space I personally need while allowing and inviting me to be part of it.

If I stay, I will try to spend a lot of time in Mexico City. I imagine I will need to settle some place less costly, but I love the city. Here are some photos from the recent visit:

First, there is the architecture, the very bones of the City. The Cathedral is actually built upon the Aztec bones of old Tenochtitlan, upon and with the stones of the old empire. The architecture spans centuries and tells the history of the city. I think now the powers that be understand the importance of this and will protect it.

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Cathedral built atop Aztec Temple

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Bellas Artes

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Random building across from my hotel room

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Down a side street from the Zocalo

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The Cathedral

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Abandoned building on the Alameda

And the food! My favorite two countries for street food are Thailand and Mexico. I really cannot decide between the two, but ranking Mexico with Thailand in terms of food says a lot. The food is cheap and plentiful, and of course, muy rico.

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And cool, stylish, joyful street life. Mexicans live hard and party harder.

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So, hopefully, it will be Mexico.

 

 

Deportees

I’ve written about visa laws. Sometimes we forget that by retiring abroad we are immigrants. We have to meet the laws the same way migrants to our own countries do. Check the laws and be sure to stay legal. As the article shows, getting deported at 70 is possible. Personally, this sounds quite disruptive and painful. Not only can U.S. citizens get deported from Mexico, they do. Repatriated, deported and extradited Americans account for more than 2,000 cases a year, or five a day on average. Sometimes more.‘I got deported from Mexico!’ Country expels hundreds of U.S. citizens every year | Fox News Latino

Source: ‘I got deported from Mexico!’ Country expels hundreds of U.S. citizens every year | Fox News Latino

Latin America

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http://www.gilgordon.com/resources/samerica.htm

It’s huge, and covers a continent and then some. I’ll be traveling around Latin America next year and checking out potential retirement spots. Fortunately in the 21st century a lot of the leg work can be done online. This I’ve been doing for the last couple of years.

I have criteria I’ve been rather loosely applying as I’ve been researching. Concern for affordable health insurance and health care has risen on my list, but the basics remain the same, and the bottom line is being able to live on my Social Security of $1300 a month (plus whatever extra income I can generate).

Here is my current short list:

Mexico

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 http://www.trllavk.tk/map-of-mexico/

Mexico meets a lot of my criteria. Unfortunately, there are rather high financial requirements for a permanent visa, and legal status is required for the national health plan. There are other plusses and minuses, and I’ll be spending time there and filing a full report.

Guatemala

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http://www.infoplease.com/atlas/centralamerica.html

Guatemala has risen on my personal list because the visa financial requirements are quite doable, there is good quality affordable health care, and it’s close to Mexico and the US.. Antigua and Lake Atitlan seem to be two favorite spots due to their climate and beauty. Guatemala City may be getting better, but it has a reputation for danger.I plan to spend some time in Guatemala.

Nicaragua

This is another country with low entrance and residency barriers. The health care is reportedly good and affordable. The cost of living is cheap, and they are some beautiful locations. It hasn’t risen to a must visit yet, but I am paying attention.

Panama

Panama offers the best package for retirees. The communities that meet my criteria in terms of climate and size tend to be more expensive than Nicaragua, Guatemala and Mexico. The medical care is reputed to be excellent. Panama City is a cosmopolitan city, with a challenging climate. Like Nicaragua, I am still researching Panama, and it does have a lot to offer.

Columbia

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http://www.infoplease.com/atlas/country/colombia.html

I met someone recently who convinced me that Columbia would be an excellent choice. The visa requirements are quite reasonable. There is very good health care and a national health plan. The cost of living is low, there are great beaches and old colonial towns and cities. Medellin gets good reviews, though it is a big city and I am not convinced that it is as safe as it is lauded these days. I do plan to visit and check it out.

Ecuador

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http://www.infoplease.com/atlas/country/ecuador.html

There are many publications these days that rate potential expat retirement locations. The income requirements for a visa are quite reasonable. Cuenca Ecuador often tops these lists. In the mountains, it has a springlike climate. There are a lot of expats living in this colonial city. Health care is both excellent and affordable, with a national health plan available to legal residents for about $80 a month. Personally, I am not so keen on the “lots of expats” part of it, and will probably be more interested in places where there is a smaller presence of us. I’ll be checking out Ecuador and will be reporting back.

Next time I’ll go through the map and talk about what places I’ve ruled out and why. Maybe something will move up to my short list, and something else may fall off. I can’t wait to get started!

The Reality of Mexico for Retirement: Visa

Mexico has been at the top of my retirement list for a long time. I’ve spent a lot of time there, and have been learning the language a bit at a time. I love the colonial mountain towns best, with their markets and plazas, with cathedrals anchoring one end and bars at the other, with lots of celebrating in between.

Joanne Bretzer Photo

Joanne Bretzer Photo

The culture of Mexico has both remained in and returned to the southwest of the United States, or the formerly north west of Mexico. Those of us who have lived in that part of the States can feel a bit at home in Mexico. It has always felt a bit like home to me.

But now the facts don’t fit the dream. High on my list of requirements are  health insurance and, of course, legal residency. Here is the problem:

Visa: The following is from the International Living website:

Temporary Residency Visa

The most common type of temporary resident visa for expats is as a retiree. To get it, you have to show that you can support yourself in Mexico on funds you’ve earned (or are earning) elsewhere. The minimum monthly requirement is about $1,553 in net income for an individual (as shown on your last six months of bank statements), plus about $520 a month for each dependent. Alternatively, you can provide bank account or investment statements for the last 12 months that show an average balance of at least $25,880. A third way is to show that you own a property in Mexico that has a value of at least about $207,046.

Permanent Residency Visa

You must show higher income requirements for a permanent resident visa. You can show investments with an average monthly balance over 12 months of about $103,523. Or you can show a monthly net income or pension over the last six months of at least $2,588.

Bottom Line

These requirements preclude anyone who is getting the average Social Security of a monthly $1300, unless you have good investment income. Now, being Mexico, there are ways around these requirements. You may either stay in Mexico on tourist visas and make visa runs, or try to work around the requirements with a lawyer.

This is a serious consideration for those of limited resources. It is fine to consider doing visa runs for a while, but do you want to when you’re 85? This also raises questions about insurance. If you want to be part of the national health plan, you will need legal residency.

Mexico – Right Across the Border

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Day two in Mazatlan view from my room.

Mazatlan is a means to an end: that end being, a trip with a friend to Copper Canyon, and reacquainting myself with Mexico. I haven’t been to Mexico for a few years, and never to Mazatlan.

Impressions:

Poverty: It seems that it would be a good idea to teleport tourists from the airport to the Centro Historico in Mazatlan. Nothing between arrival at the airport and arrival at the tourist district would recommend staying here. The intervening reality is poor, dirty and disheveled, and disheartening. It is a testament to the Disney-fication of city centers that tourists are able to suspend the reality of what they see upon arrival and luxuriate in the artificial cultural authenticity of the centros historicos.

Noise: The noise level is challenging. People say Asians are loud, and some can be, but Mexico has the volume at 10 most of the time. Music, laughs, talking  — all great in their own right, but exhausting when constant. But, I’m in a city, so no rush to judgement.

Judgement: That is actually what I am here for, I realized. I am here to judge whether I can, or want to, live here. This task makes just enjoying the place a bit complicated.

Complications: Where to stay? Where to go? When? Why?

People: It is Mexico, after all. People are genuinely friendly, and some are equally genuinely interested in your money. Of course.

Safety: I haven’t seen anything yet to make me feel unsafe. The unsafe feeling comes from media images over time impressing on my mind the idea of the dangerous Mexican male of a certain age and deportment. This is called prejudice, but it gets ingrained and second nature. It’s hard to turn on American television without seeing Latino males causing havoc. It sells well to pander to existing prejudices with evidence to reinforce, and create more, prejudices. I feel safe and the Mexican men I have encountered have been kind and respectful. Now, of course, I haven’t been trying to buy drugs or frequenting the places where people do, and that is probably a very wise thing.

Heat: Yes, well the heat and humidity are here in Mazatlan. I’ll be going down for a long siesta today. The AC in my room is no match for the afternoon heat. I’ll try to score a fan from the hotel. Tomorrow I’ll catch a bus for Durango, 6000 ft up in the mountains in the east. I’ll be back here for a few days next week before heading north to the Copper Canyon.

Language: I’m sort of holding my own with Spanish. Mexicans tend to speak it blessedly slowly. I learn some every day, and have no fear of being able to have a modest mastery of what I need if I decide on Latin America. This hemisphere has that going for it over Asia — I can speak the languages, more or less.

So, my first days have been a bit disorienting and disconcerting, as I now have an agenda which makes me view things with a much more critical eye than in the past.